In Provence, one of the oldest wine-producing regions in France, the Coteaux Varois AOC was, surprisingly, only granted in 1993, after years of protest from the other established ACs. It is the geographic centre of Provence and its unique terroir is based on its elevation, with an average height of 350m and some plots up to 500m. Despite the close proximity to the Mediterranean, the Coteaux Varois climate is more continental due to its altitude, some say its conditions are more similar to Burgundy. Featured by undulating ranges – the basins and narrow valleys of which provide for a variety of soil types and meso-climates. Coteaux Varois en Provence is characterised by excellent acidity, balance, complex flavours and perfume. The style and quality lends itself to rosé that can age comparatively well to its regional cousins.
Domaine de Cala is located in the Medieval town of Brignoles in the Var, where the appellation is strictly limited to the 28 communes around the town. The lower-yielding vineyards in and around Brignoles are on the northern foothills of the limestone-rich Massif de la Sainte-Beaume, and are protected by this mountain range adjacent to the coastline, having a moderating influence on the interior “heart” of Provence. Being one of the last areas to harvest in the region, around 2 weeks later than Côtes du Provence and sometimes even as late as November, it therefore benefits from a longer, slower ripening season.
As with the rest of Provence, it has the cooling influence of the Mistral from the north, abundant sunshine, warm days, cool nights and little rainfall.
Proprietor of Domaine de Cala, Joachim Splichal, was born in Germany and raised in his parent’s restaurant, where he was put in charge of the wine cellar when he was still in school. Food and wine was always in his blood. He forged his culinary career around Europe, most notably at Michelin restaurants along the Côte d’Azur. Those formative years of Mediterranean food and lifestyle inspired him as he went on to become the Founder of the Patina Restaurant Group empire based in Los Angeles, where he is still based. But years on, he has always wanted to own a winery in Provence. The food-friendly styles of rosé are the perfect marriage of his two loves. In the search for the right estate in 2014, a family-owned-and-run property in Brignoles became available that had been producing rosé for 60 years, but was now in need of repair. He purchased it in 2015, a total of 600 acres (240 ha), home to wild boar and other game among the truffle trees and containing a 19th-century château that Splichal is now restoring.
According to Splichal, Cala is a dream-come-true project. Shortly after taking over the estate he went about rehabilitating the vineyards as well as building an architecturally striking state-of-the-art winery, tasting room and intimate restaurant.
Splichal was dedicated to keeping the family-run tradition of the property and sets up a legacy for the domaine by bringing his sons Nicolas and Stephàne on as partners. In his winemaking team is local Provence rosé specialist, Bruno Tringali, and famed Bordeaux wine consultant, Stéphane Derencourt, who specialises in the red wines.
120 acres (50 ha) of the 600-acre property is under vine and the wines are 100% estate-grown and produced. Planted on rolling hills are Grenache, Carignan, Syrah, Rolle, and Cinsault vines, on clay soils abundant with rich minerals and well-draining limestone. A distinguishing feature of Domaine de Cala Rosé is the addition of the Coteaux Varois’ characteristic charming white variety, Rolle (or Vermentino). Originally from Liguria, Italy, but grown in Provence since antiquity, it is an extremely hardy grape, which produces flavoursome wines with citrus aromas and a smooth, fuller-body. In the blend for the rosé, Rolle brings freshness and mineral acidity.
The complexity, generosity of flavour and rounded quality of Coteaux Varois is the mark of the domaine’s rosé. We are thrilled to have brought this producer to the Australian trade first in 2018, and now with the latest 2020 vintage recently arrived from France. It is available now in all states.
Source: fesq.com.au